The Rolex 16550, a watch often whispered about in hushed tones among serious collectors, represents a fascinating intersection of horological history and enduring desirability. Its allure stems not only from its robust build and iconic design, but also from the intriguing variations within its production run, particularly those equipped with the highly sought-after caliber 3085 movement. The advertised price of €10,425, plus €54 shipping, for a specific example raises questions about its condition, provenance, and the overall value proposition. This article delves deep into the world of the Rolex 16550, focusing on the nuances of the caliber 3085, its place within the broader context of the Explorer II line, and how to navigate the complexities of purchasing a vintage Rolex.
The Rolex Explorer II 16550: A Brief History
The Rolex Explorer II, first introduced in 1971 as reference 1655, was designed as a tool watch for spelunkers and explorers. Its defining feature, the independently adjustable 24-hour hand, proved invaluable for navigating in low-light conditions and differentiating between day and night. The reference 16550, produced from 1985 to 1989, represents a significant evolution. While retaining the core functionality of its predecessor, the 16550 incorporated several key improvements.
One of the most significant changes was the movement. The earlier 1655 utilized the caliber 1570, a robust but less refined movement compared to its successor. The 16550 adopted the caliber 3085, a significant upgrade offering improved accuracy, reliability, and shock resistance. This movement, often hailed for its robust construction and relatively easy serviceability, became a hallmark of the 16550. However, the transition wasn't entirely seamless. Variations in dial and hand configurations, as well as minor case modifications, contribute to the complexity and allure of collecting these watches.
The Caliber 3085: The Heart of the 16550
The Rolex caliber 3085 is a mechanical, self-winding movement known for its durability and precision. Developed as an evolution of previous Rolex movements, the 3085 boasts a higher beat rate than its predecessors, contributing to enhanced timekeeping accuracy. Its robust construction, featuring a high-quality balance spring and shock protection system, made it ideally suited for the demanding conditions the Explorer II was designed to withstand. This reliability is a key factor in the continued desirability of the 16550 among collectors.
The caliber 3085’s relatively straightforward design also made it easier to service and maintain compared to some of Rolex's more complex movements. While Rolex continues to produce and refine its movements, the 3085 remains a highly regarded movement for its combination of accuracy, reliability, and serviceability. This aspect contributes significantly to the long-term value of a well-maintained 16550.
The Pietzner Reference and Price Considerations
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